The rest of the Story
It occurs to me that I haven't told you, my Dear Readers, how the rest of my trip went. So here goes.....
The morning after arriving in Chicago was spent shopping and mourning the demise of Marshall Fields (soon to be a Macys)before reporting back to Union Station for a ride to Omaha.
The California Zephyr (aka The Train To Omaha) was right on time, and is always a pleasant ride. It takes about the same time to take the train as it does to drive, so we arrived into Omaha at 10:30, which I think was a bit early.
Home for Christmas was very nice. Since it was the first Christmas we've had since Dad died, expectations were pretty grim, but we really did have a nice time. I made a leg of lamb, and had some good Washington Merlot to wash it down with. I managed to slip away and hit the Omaha antique shops, and discovered a great new thrift shop in downtown Council Bluffs (where the Chevrolet dealership used to be) so I was quite pleased with my haul.
Before you know it, I was back on the Zephyr, and electroluxing back to Chicago, where I checked into the Palmer House, and promptly hit the Trader Vics. Closing Vic's was just a crying shame, and it most likely spells the last time I will stay in this hotel, because it's just not worth it. All of their other dining venues suck.
So I spent the next morning wandering around downtown Chicago, which is just an amazing place. Chicago has its own special energy, and there's no place like it. It was with a lot of regret that I headed back to Union Station to get on the Southwest Chief.
I have to say it again: I love the Southwest Chief. It is hands down my favorite Long-Distance Amtrak route. It's the best way to see the Southwest, and it's on-time record is exemplary. After an evening of leisurely dining, follwed by some lovely cocktails, we arrived into Kansas City, where I stepped off the train to view the Western Auto sign, which is one of the nation's best pieces of neon (yes, I am a geek. I don't care) and then slept blissfully through Kansas (which is the best way to go through Kansas. Backwards Republicans.
The next morning, I awoke, and spent the day oggling out the windows at the scenery. Not to get too wonkish, but the route this train takes is quite remote, and very rugged. At some points, the train travels through gullies that are literally the width of the train. The only place more scenic on the Amtrak system is the route between Denver and Salt Lake City. Unfortunately, this stretch of track is being considered for abandonment by the Burlington Northern Santa Fe, so it may not be available that much longer. It will be a sad day when and if they give up this stretch of track.
That evening at 9pm, I got off the train in Winslow, Arizona, and checked into La Posada, the fabulous resort hotel designed by the legendary Mary Coulter for the Santa Fe railroad.
La Posada was closed in 1959 and turned into offices by the Santa Fe. When they consolidated operatons in 1993, it was nearly demolished. Luckily, a couple purchased the hotel and have been gradually restoring it to its former grandeur. Coulter's vision was that the hotel should look like a Spanish Hacienda that was converted to a hotel, and she was meticulous - designing everything from the furniture to the maid's uniforms.
The new La Posada features a great dining room and a neat little bar, but the bartender was something of a prude. There were only four people in the bar when I got there, and when one of the other patrons used a swear word, she told him that there was a "three strikes" rule on swearing. What the fuck is up with that? It's a fucking bar, for Christ's sake!
The next morning, I explored Winslow, which took exactly 30 minutes. There really ain't no there there, and here was revealed the greatest flaw of La Posada: There's nothing to do, and if you are taking the train, you are stuck there until 8:50 that evening. So I spent most of the day sitting out on the gallery, reading a book and listening to the radio via the satalite radio the colonel gave me for Christmas. (Thank GOD for that Satalite radio. Without it, I am certain that I would find nothing but Country and Jesuscasts)
After treating myself to a lovely dinner in the dining room, I boarded the westbound train, and after a nightcap, fell asleep. I woke up the next morning as we were entering the suburbs of LA, arriving one hour early at the enchanting time of 7:30am.
LA was a rainy mess, and depressing to boot. I checked into the downtown Marriott, and was extremely not impressed: The room was worn and the hotel seemed really creepy. So after a nice nap, I decided to check out and try San Diego.
The train to San Diego was great. It runs right along the ocean for a good amount of time, and the stormy Pacific was quite a sight. Soon we were arriving into San Diego, where I checked into the Radisson.
The less said about that Hotel, the better. It was a classic dump, as are almost all radissons. But I met up with some very fun stewardesses in the hotel bar, and we all rung in the new year together.
The next morning was sunny and warm, and I had a lovely new year's morning before boarding the train up to LA, and boarding a flight home.
All in all, it was a great trip.
The morning after arriving in Chicago was spent shopping and mourning the demise of Marshall Fields (soon to be a Macys)before reporting back to Union Station for a ride to Omaha.
The California Zephyr (aka The Train To Omaha) was right on time, and is always a pleasant ride. It takes about the same time to take the train as it does to drive, so we arrived into Omaha at 10:30, which I think was a bit early.
Home for Christmas was very nice. Since it was the first Christmas we've had since Dad died, expectations were pretty grim, but we really did have a nice time. I made a leg of lamb, and had some good Washington Merlot to wash it down with. I managed to slip away and hit the Omaha antique shops, and discovered a great new thrift shop in downtown Council Bluffs (where the Chevrolet dealership used to be) so I was quite pleased with my haul.
Before you know it, I was back on the Zephyr, and electroluxing back to Chicago, where I checked into the Palmer House, and promptly hit the Trader Vics. Closing Vic's was just a crying shame, and it most likely spells the last time I will stay in this hotel, because it's just not worth it. All of their other dining venues suck.
So I spent the next morning wandering around downtown Chicago, which is just an amazing place. Chicago has its own special energy, and there's no place like it. It was with a lot of regret that I headed back to Union Station to get on the Southwest Chief.
I have to say it again: I love the Southwest Chief. It is hands down my favorite Long-Distance Amtrak route. It's the best way to see the Southwest, and it's on-time record is exemplary. After an evening of leisurely dining, follwed by some lovely cocktails, we arrived into Kansas City, where I stepped off the train to view the Western Auto sign, which is one of the nation's best pieces of neon (yes, I am a geek. I don't care) and then slept blissfully through Kansas (which is the best way to go through Kansas. Backwards Republicans.
The next morning, I awoke, and spent the day oggling out the windows at the scenery. Not to get too wonkish, but the route this train takes is quite remote, and very rugged. At some points, the train travels through gullies that are literally the width of the train. The only place more scenic on the Amtrak system is the route between Denver and Salt Lake City. Unfortunately, this stretch of track is being considered for abandonment by the Burlington Northern Santa Fe, so it may not be available that much longer. It will be a sad day when and if they give up this stretch of track.
That evening at 9pm, I got off the train in Winslow, Arizona, and checked into La Posada, the fabulous resort hotel designed by the legendary Mary Coulter for the Santa Fe railroad.
La Posada was closed in 1959 and turned into offices by the Santa Fe. When they consolidated operatons in 1993, it was nearly demolished. Luckily, a couple purchased the hotel and have been gradually restoring it to its former grandeur. Coulter's vision was that the hotel should look like a Spanish Hacienda that was converted to a hotel, and she was meticulous - designing everything from the furniture to the maid's uniforms.
The new La Posada features a great dining room and a neat little bar, but the bartender was something of a prude. There were only four people in the bar when I got there, and when one of the other patrons used a swear word, she told him that there was a "three strikes" rule on swearing. What the fuck is up with that? It's a fucking bar, for Christ's sake!
The next morning, I explored Winslow, which took exactly 30 minutes. There really ain't no there there, and here was revealed the greatest flaw of La Posada: There's nothing to do, and if you are taking the train, you are stuck there until 8:50 that evening. So I spent most of the day sitting out on the gallery, reading a book and listening to the radio via the satalite radio the colonel gave me for Christmas. (Thank GOD for that Satalite radio. Without it, I am certain that I would find nothing but Country and Jesuscasts)
After treating myself to a lovely dinner in the dining room, I boarded the westbound train, and after a nightcap, fell asleep. I woke up the next morning as we were entering the suburbs of LA, arriving one hour early at the enchanting time of 7:30am.
LA was a rainy mess, and depressing to boot. I checked into the downtown Marriott, and was extremely not impressed: The room was worn and the hotel seemed really creepy. So after a nice nap, I decided to check out and try San Diego.
The train to San Diego was great. It runs right along the ocean for a good amount of time, and the stormy Pacific was quite a sight. Soon we were arriving into San Diego, where I checked into the Radisson.
The less said about that Hotel, the better. It was a classic dump, as are almost all radissons. But I met up with some very fun stewardesses in the hotel bar, and we all rung in the new year together.
The next morning was sunny and warm, and I had a lovely new year's morning before boarding the train up to LA, and boarding a flight home.
All in all, it was a great trip.
posted by Catalina Vel-DuRay @ Monday, January 09, 2006
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